Category Archives: Free Crochet Doll Pattern “Deadra

Free Crocheted Doll Pattern “Deadra”

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Deadra

I started out with a doll pattern that I found in a crochet project booklet. I changed the shape of the head, the legs,and the hands. Then I changed the dress pattern too. After I did all that I tried several different ways to make the hair on several different dolls. So this pattern is truly mine, and I’m willing to share with you, as long as you give me credit and be creative by changing a few things and making it your “own”. And, by all means, YOU MUST HAVE FUN!!!!

Materials and Tools

Doll: I used Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand in Linen for this doll; I usually use Beige for the head and body main color (MC). You can use any worsted weight yarn you prefer.

Clothing/Shoes: I like to use Simply Soft by Caron for the clothing because it is soft and has a bit of sheen to it. But you can use whatever you like, just make sure it’s the same weight yarn as you use for your doll (C/S). You probably want at least two small (1/4in or smaller) buttons for your doll’s dress.

Hair: I have been trying different types of yarn for the hair to get different looks. Again, Simply Soft by Caron is a good choice because of its softness and sheen. This particular doll has a fairly heavy, rather fuzzy type of yarn hair. I wanted her to have kind of an unkempt look. Also, you can separate the strands if you want to make the hair curly or have a lighter weight (H).

Size E Crochet Hook: Make sure (this is extremely important) to crochet tightly when making the doll parts. If you don’t they will stretch out when you stuff them, making them appear lumpy, and you will be able to see the stuffing between the stitches. To me this looks very unprofessional.

Eyes: You can use plastic safety eyes, if you can find them. Or you can embroider them on. I use both methods. But when I use eyes, I use 9mm safety eyes. This doll has embroidered eyes, using two strands of black yarn.

Face: Yarn (two strands of the four –strand yarn, separated), or embroidery floss (all six strands). Powdered blush, or in this case, eye shadow, to blush her cheeks.

Stuffing: I use polyester fiberfill.

Arms: Two light grey chenille stems, or two beige chenille stems. If you’re making a doll with darker skin, just find stems that closely match your yarn color.

You will also need a blunt tipped yarn needle, some needle-nose pliers, scissors, stitch markers (tiny safety pins), and a row counter.

Getting Started

It’s important to mark the end of each row with a stitch marker to make sure you start and end in the right place. I use little tiny safety pins. They work great, they’re cheap, and they don’t fall off!

It’s equally important to keep track of the rows as you crochet. You can purchase a row counter at any craft or fabric store. Or, if you like, you can just use a paper and pencil to keep tally. I prefer the row counter myself. I just find it to be a lot easier to keep track that way.

 

Note: This pattern is for a girl doll only!

Head: With MC, ch 2.

Row 1: 8sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each sc around. (16sts)

Row 3: *2sc in next sc. 1sc in next sc. Repeat from *around. (24sts)

Row 4: *2sc in next sc. 1sc in each of next 2sc. Repeat from *around. (32sts)

Row 5: *2sc in next sc. 1sc in each of the next 3sc. Repeat from *around. (40sts)

Rows 6-10: 1sc in each sc around. (40sts)

Row 11: *1sc dec, 1sc in each of the next 3sc. Repeat from *around. (32sts)

Row 12: *1sc dec, 1sc in each of the next 2sc. Repeat from *around. (24sts)

Row 13: *1sc dec,. 1sc in next sc. Repeat from *around. (16sts)

Row 14: *1sc dec. Repeat from *around. Join with sl st to first st. (8sts) Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing head to body.

Now’s the time to insert your safety eyes, then you can stuff the head.

Body: With C/S, ch 30. Join with sl st to first ch.

Row 1: Start in same st that you did the sl st in. 1sc in each ch around. (30sts)

Row 2-10: Sc in each stitch around. (30sts)

Change back to MC

Row 11: *1sc dec, 1sc in each of the next 3sc. Repeat from *around. (24sts)

Row 12-24: 1sc in each st around. (24)

Row 25: *1sc dec, 1sc in each of next 2sc. Repeat from *around. (18sts)

Row 26: 1sc dec, sc in next 7sc, 1sc dec, sc in last 7sc. (16sts)

Row 27: Sc dec around. (8sts)

Row 28: 1sc in ea st around (8sts)

Fasten off. Sew bottom of body closed. Stuff body.

Arms: (make 2): With MC ch 2.

Row 1: 5sc in 2nd ch from hook. (5sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each sc around. (10sts)

Row 3: 1sc in each sc around. . (10sts)

Row 4: 1sc in each of next 4 sc. 1 bobble st in next sc (thumb). I sc in each of last 5sc. (10sts)

Row 5: 1sc in each st around. (10sts)

Row 6: 1sc deck, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, twice. (8sts)

Row 7-30: 1sc in each st around. Join with SL st to first sc, fasten off leaving a long end to sew arm to body. (8sts).

Take chenille stem and gently bend at halfway point making sure the bend stays rounded off instead of pointed. About and inch away from rounded-off end, begin to gently twist the two ends together. Insert into arm. Cut ends of chenille stem ½ inch longer than arm length. Bend these two ends back into the end of arm and twist together to secure and keep ends from poking through arm.

If you’d rather not use chenille stems you can just stuff the arms at this point. I like to use the stems because it allows you to pose the dolls in more realistic positions. You also don’t have to use stuffing when you use the stems.

Legs: (make 2): First you must start with C/S and make the shoe.

Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1sc in each of the next 4ch. 3sc in last ch. Do Not Turn. Working in remaining loops of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 4ch. 2sc in last ch. (15sts)

Row 2: Sc in first sc. 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4sc. 2sc in each of the next 3sc. sc in each of the next 4sc, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last sc. (20sts)

Row 3: Working in back loops only, 1sc in each sc around. (20sts)

Row 4: Sc in ea st around. (20sts)

Row 5: Sc in next sc, sc dec, sc in next 4sc, sc dec, 3 times, sc in next 4sc, sc dec, sc in next sc. (15sts)

Row 6: Using MC sc in first sc, sc dec, sc in next 3sc, sc dec using the next 3sc, sc in next 3sc, sc dec, sc in last sc. (11sts)

Row 7-20: Sc in each sc around. (11sts)

Row 21: 2sc in the first sc, sc in ea sc around. (12sts)

Row 22: 2sc in the first sc, sc in ea sc around. (13sts)

Row 23: 2sc in the first sc, sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc, sc in the last 6sc. (15sts)

Row 24-30: Sc in each sc around (15sts)

Row 31: Switch to C/S Sc in ea sc around. (15sts)

Row 32: Sc in ea sc around (15sts)

Row 33: Sc in ea sc around, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off leaving long tail to sew to body. (15sts)

Stuff legs firmly. Sew tops of legs closed using whip stitch. Sew to bottom of body. Sew arms to sides of body.

Clothing:

Doll dress skirt

Row 1: Ch25, join with sl st to first ch.

Row 2: Ch1, sc in ea st around,. join with sl st in first sc. (25sts)

Row 3: Ch1, 2sc in first sc, sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12sc, 2sc in sc, sc in next 6sc, 2sc in last sc, join with sl st to first sc. (30sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc in ea sc around, join with sl st to first dc. (30sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, dc in ea dc around, join with sl st to first dc. (30sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, 2dc in first sc, dc in next 13sc, 2dc in next sc, dc in last 15sc, join with sl st to first dc.

Row 7: Ch2, dc in the next 8sc, 2dc in next sc, dc in next 15sc, 2dc in the next sc, dc in last 7dc, join with sl st to first dc. (34sts)

Row 8-10: Dc in ea dc around, join with sl st to first dc. (34sts)

Row 11: *Ch 4, sc in next dc, repeat from * around.

Top of Dress

Attach yarn to top edge of skirt.

Row 1-2: Sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first stitch. (25sts)

Row 3: Sc in each sc around. DO NOT JOIN, instead, ch 1 and turn

Row 4-12: Sc in each sc around, ch1 and turn at the end of each row.

Fasten off.  Hide loose ends.

You can leave the top of the dress like this or you can add straps.

First try the dress on your doll to make sure it fits. While the dress is still on try making a few chain stitches (ch) with your yarn to see how many it will take to reach from the front of the dress to the back. Then ch 1, and turn. Make a row of sc the length of the chain and fasten off, leaving a long end to attach to dress. Make another strap exactly the same way. Now finish off both straps and sew them to the doll’s dress.

To finish the dress I usually make a row of slip stitch (sl) along the edges of the dress starting at the back neckline. I attach the yarn to the left back side at the neck, I make three or four small ch st, then I make a sl onto the edge of the dress (this makes a little button hole). You can sl one or two more times, then ch 3 or 4, then attach your chain to the back of the dress with a sl (now you have a second buttonhole), and continue sl all along the opening edge. You can do this along the front edge of the dress too to give it a finished look.

Now you can add whatever else you want. The doll in this picture is a Zombie, so I added some scraggy-looking yarn to her dress to give it that worn and torn look. But if you want to make a “live” doll you could use buttons, ribbon, flowers, or just about anything else you can think of.

Hair:

First you need to make a wig cap. You’ll need some yarn the same color that the doll’s hair will be. The type and weight of the yarn should be the same gauge as you used to make your doll’s head.

Simply follow the directions for making the doll head, only make sure to crochet in the back loops only, (this gives you loops to attach the hair strands to), to about row 9 or 10. You’ll have to try the wig cap on the doll to see how it looks and to know when it’s big enough. If it’s a loose fit, try decreasing once or twice on the last two rounds of the wig cap. Once you have it the size you want, just fasten off. Then hide the ends.

You will then sew this wig cap onto your doll’s head. I’ve been using the latch-hook technique recently to make my doll hair and I really like it, although it’s a lot more work than other methods I’ve tried, it does have the best look, I think.

You simply cut strands of yarn double the length of the hair you want your doll to have. I cut mine fairly long, because my dolls always get a finishing haircut after all their hair has been attached. Separate the strands so you’ll only be using one or two strands at a time. Then insert your crochet hook into one loop of the wig cap, loop the yarn around your hook and pull it back through. Now take the two loose ends and pull them through that yarn loop and pull taut. You can make the hair as thick or thin as you like by placing the yarn strands in each loop, or in every second or third loop.

Finishing:

Dress your doll, then style the hair the way you like it.  You might like to secure it in place by using matching color thread and tacking it in place.   Now’s the time to trim the hair to the desired length.  Then you can decorate the hair with clips, ribbons, etc.

Using a powder blush, or in this case, some dark purple eye shadow, take a q-tip and apply a spot of “blush” on each cheek.

 

 

 

 

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